General Alpaca Care Facts

1. Alpacas are herd animals:  You need to have at least 2 for them to be content.   Even in the midst of a herd, alpacas show concern when one is separated from the group.

2. Shelter - fencing: Some protection from snow, wind, sun, rain and lightning should be provided.  Make sure fencing is suitable to keep other  species out of their enclosures (use electric fencing outside regular fencing if necessary). NEVER use barbed wire as the barbs can easily injure their prominent eyes  and get entangled in their fiber.

3. Heat and humidity: Alpacas handle cold much better then heat and humidity. They cool through their belly primarily so need shearing in the spring. They must have shelter from the sun and can sunburn.  Open-mouthed breathing in the heat of summer can be a sign of distress.  Our alpacas love to play in a few inches of water in a childs swimming pool, or in a sprinkler.  They will all gather around to get sprayed with a hose on a hot summer day.  A normal adult alpaca temperature is 100- 102 degrees.  Anything 103 degrees or higher is abnormal.

4. Alpacas should not be left tied to a tree/post or left haltered.  Use a bungee or similar elastic extension if you must tie an untended alpaca. Always closely supervise a tied alpaca!  Don't leave the halters on all the time - train your alpacas to accept haltering or provide a catch pen or stall to facilitate haltering. Always ensure that the halter fits properly and well up on the nose- alpacas are nose breathers and anything that restricts their nostrils will cause them to panic fearing suffocation.

5. Traveling with your alpaca:  Alpacas usually tolerate travel very well.  Be aware that any change in environment or routine does cause some stress.  Never transport an alpaca in her third trimester unless it is an emergency - wait until the cria delivers and then transport.  Be particularly cautious when traveling in temperatures over 75 degrees and especially cautious if the humidity is also elevated. Travel at night to reduce heat problems. Avoid crowding and mixing overly dominant alpacas with less aggressive ones. Provide feed and water in containers that can not easily be contaminated.  When traveling with cria or suris in cold weather, restrict the air flow to conserve heat, use cria coats and provide a heavy hay/straw bedding for insulation.

6. Have a chute or safe restraint: If an alpaca is injured or refusing shots, toenail clipping, etc. a means of safe restraint is needed to prevent injury to the alpaca and yourself

7. Weigh your alpaca or do a monthly hands on: Those fat cuddly alpacas can be skeletons under that fiber. Neither your veterinarian nor a veteran alpaca owner can stand back and accurately guess the weight of an adult alpaca.  Learn to body score your alpaca! 

8. Males grow fighting teeth between 2-3 years of age and these can easily be cut off by your vet.

9. Don't buy cria younger than 4 months: Unweaned cria are not suitable pets.

10. Alpacas can choke on concentrated pellets: Occasionally an alpaca will "choke" while eating pellets particularly if there is a lot of competition for food. The "lump" may be massaged down the throat with gentle pressure always in a downward motion.  If choke is not resolved by the animal in 1 hour, contact your vet.  Do not feed rabbit or cow pellets even though they look identical. They can cause mineral toxicities in alpacas.

11. Alpacas need a mineral/salt supplement: No matter what feeding regime you are using, alpacas need free access to a source of salt and minerals. In selenium deficient areas of the country this is particularly important. Check with your Extension Agent or vet as to which minerals are lacking in your area.  Any cria born during the fall and winter months will require  Vitamins AD&E to prevent "rickets" on a regular basis until spring.

12. Help your alpaca avoid poisonous/dangerous plants and trees: Alpacas are browsers and nibble on a variety of things. Some are quite lethal such as rhododendron, oleander, wilted cherry, etc. Even a few leaves blown from your neighbors' yard can prove fatal. Some will cause abortions or congenital deformities. Pine needles and resins produced by some trees can cause impaction. Cria are particularly noted for nibbling on odd substances and are more susceptible. Check with your vet and  read up on the signs and symptoms of distress in your alpaca vet books.

13. Never leave male and female alpacas together unless you want to breed them: Young females are sexually precocious and fertile and pregnancies can occur in females less than 6 months old!

14. Prolonged labor is not natural: Alpacas normally deliver before 2 or 3 o'clock. When you notice active pushing or hard labor, a nose or foot should appear well within an hour. If you suspect your alpaca is in labor and it goes on longer than one hour without some part of the cria appearing -call your vet. If prior to, or during, active pushing she lies down on one side and then the other frequently - or is up and down constantly - or if she is flat out with her head on the side - call your vet. Also take one of the delivery/neonate hands on courses offered at alpaca conferences and learn how to detect and resolve a dystocia (difficult birth) on your own.

15. Keep colostrum and plasma on hand: Colostrum needs to be in the cria's belly within 12 hours after delivery to be absorbed and provide passive transfer of antibodies, provide strength and aid as a laxative to move any meconium (stool) along. Don't wait until you have a problem. Keep frozen colostrum (from Triple J, etc.) on hand and thaw as directed, bottle feed directly to the cria in the first 12 hours (make certain the cria is warm or no absorption will occur). If 12 hours have expired then have your vet transfuse plasma IV.   Keep two units of plasma in your freezer for emergency use. - both colostrum and plasma will last long periods of time if frozen.

16. Deworming and vaccinations: Institute a regular health check either handled by yourself or your vet. Panacur or Safeguard paste and Ivermectin subcutaneous shots are recommended and considered safe during pregnancy.  Annual CDT  is  standard.  Cria are vaccinated and boosted I month later (check with your vet for schedule). Young alpacas are susceptible to coccidia infestations more so than adults; diarrhea is a symptom. Coccidiosis can lead to dehydration, debilitation and death. Treat with Corrid as directed by your vet.

17. Tid Bits:

Always consult with your vet if you need specific advice on the care and health of your alpacas. 

 Alpacas are nose breathers. If they suffer a snake bite to the nose - insert hair rollers into each nostril immediately (don't wait until the nares start to swell).

For suspected gastric ulcers use Prilosec (Omeprazole) orally - do not use NG tube

Do not apply any cortisone containing substance (ie ointment, eye drops, etc.) to a pregnant alpaca as it often will cause an abortion.

18. Reading material: If you buy no other alpaca books be sure and get Murray E Fowler DVM's "Medicine and Surgery of South American Camelids" and Evan's "Llama and Alpaca Field Manual Ed. 2001". There are also good articles/booklets put out and recommended by AOBA.

 

Enchanted Acres Ranch - Created 5/2/03.  Updated 3/25/08.